Woke up with a view of the sea across the fields. Although we intended to start our climb over the edge of the mountain range early, Tadek discovered that his front tyre was totally flat. A quick fix was done, but was not really successful as the hole was on the seam of the tube. A steep climb caused it to fail and another attempt was made at the top. I walked most of the steep bit, and by then the sun had become unbearable. A few cycle tourists passed us on the way seeming fresh and full of energy. After the steep section, the going as quite pleasant with rolling hills mainly downhill to the next coast. Found a fantastic village café without coffee (Pilon also had no coffee), but with very good quick hot snacks (most with bread). Our intended destination appeared too quickly (they still had not coffee) so we decided to cycle another 18kms to Play Las Coloradas, the point where Fidel, Raul and Che and 80 others arrived in a ‘yacht’ in the mangrove to start the revolution. Entry to see the monument was €6 per person, so we decided that it was a little too expensive (the average wage is only €20 per month). Undeterred, we found a friendly kiosk selling snacks and alcohol and sat down with some locals and their kids. We must have looked bad, as one of the locals actually bought us some drinks and would not take one back.
As we sipped our drinks, one of the guards to the monument (1km down a gated road) offered us a special ‘evening’ price to get in. Everyone was happy with the cash-in-hand deal and we headed off on our bikes to see what they had created to glorify the disembarkation point. It did not disappoint! The yacht used had been recreated in ply-board and stuck on the base of an old truck. There was a long ‘pier’ made of decaying concrete that went out 1km into the mangrove. We cycled along the meter wide path at times having to dismount and climb over missing sections to get to the end. Happy that we had seen this historical point we headed back to the mainland, while being eaten alive by thousands (if not millions of mosquitoes and sand flies). We could not get our long clothing on quickly enough as the vile creatures laughed at our powerful insect repellent. The true discomfort would arrive the next day.
Returned to the kiosk for aperitifs before trying out our first ‘local’ meal. Earlier in the afternoon a persistent lady had cagouled us into trying some local specialities. Another chance for Tadek to eat some fish. It was expensive compared to local fare, but was our first true meal since entering Cuba. Not exactly special, but after two weeks eating stodge; a salad, some rice, plantains, fish and a spicy dressing were very much appreciated.
We pitched our tent near the beach, campismo and kiosk then lay down to be eaten again by the mosquitoes that had managed to squeeze into the tent with us.
More information on revolutionary sites in Granma Province Cuba
As we sipped our drinks, one of the guards to the monument (1km down a gated road) offered us a special ‘evening’ price to get in. Everyone was happy with the cash-in-hand deal and we headed off on our bikes to see what they had created to glorify the disembarkation point. It did not disappoint! The yacht used had been recreated in ply-board and stuck on the base of an old truck. There was a long ‘pier’ made of decaying concrete that went out 1km into the mangrove. We cycled along the meter wide path at times having to dismount and climb over missing sections to get to the end. Happy that we had seen this historical point we headed back to the mainland, while being eaten alive by thousands (if not millions of mosquitoes and sand flies). We could not get our long clothing on quickly enough as the vile creatures laughed at our powerful insect repellent. The true discomfort would arrive the next day.
Returned to the kiosk for aperitifs before trying out our first ‘local’ meal. Earlier in the afternoon a persistent lady had cagouled us into trying some local specialities. Another chance for Tadek to eat some fish. It was expensive compared to local fare, but was our first true meal since entering Cuba. Not exactly special, but after two weeks eating stodge; a salad, some rice, plantains, fish and a spicy dressing were very much appreciated.
We pitched our tent near the beach, campismo and kiosk then lay down to be eaten again by the mosquitoes that had managed to squeeze into the tent with us.
More information on revolutionary sites in Granma Province Cuba