After dinner the Dutch guy got slaughtered on rum while I took only a small gulp from my bottle and did not want any more! (very odd). We spent the evening listening to one of the guides, sitting on the veranda. He explained a lot about growing tourism problems and also animal behaviour and some general knowledge. He also joked about his holidays in Holland when he had to walk the dog and pick up the poo (or be reported for not doing so). He had also lived with a producer of weed for the UK market (well funny). Another druggy aspect of the park is the cocaine smuggling route which goes along the coast of CR. Apparently, Colombians very often dump their goods into the water (which is washed on shore) when chased by the customs. Two weeks ago guide has found 25 kg cocaine on the beach in the national park! If you think you had ever had the problems with mosquitoes, you never been here. The DEET repellent seems to attract the buggers !!!
4.30 on coffee and to stock up on food and water. The first aid kit got removed to make a space for a bottle of rum (priorities!) . Anyway, after two hours on a cattle bus over knackered roads and through river crossings rivers, we arrived at the national park entrance. A small buffet of coffee and pastries stuffed with cheese or chicken was included in $8 US cost for the bus. Upon completing the 10 minute registration form and disclaimer, off we went for a 19 km adventure in to the total wilderness of Corcovado National Park. Ant eaters, pelicans, pumas and snakes - that is just the beginning of the list of the most remote national park in the Osa Peninsular, Costa Rica. Tidal river crossings might have sharks from one side and crocodiles from the other, not to mention monkeys growling like bears. We arrived at the basic refuge station (Sirena Station) at 4 pm. After a shower (not so basic then Tadek!) walk around, we had dinner - the best one so far in CR, although it was not cheap (in fact nothing is in this country!) After dinner the Dutch guy got slaughtered on rum while I took only a small gulp from my bottle and did not want any more! (very odd). We spent the evening listening to one of the guides, sitting on the veranda. He explained a lot about growing tourism problems and also animal behaviour and some general knowledge. He also joked about his holidays in Holland when he had to walk the dog and pick up the poo (or be reported for not doing so). He had also lived with a producer of weed for the UK market (well funny). Another druggy aspect of the park is the cocaine smuggling route which goes along the coast of CR. Apparently, Colombians very often dump their goods into the water (which is washed on shore) when chased by the customs. Two weeks ago guide has found 25 kg cocaine on the beach in the national park! If you think you had ever had the problems with mosquitoes, you never been here. The DEET repellent seems to attract the buggers !!!
0 Comments
Slept like a baby after the previous two nights ruffing it on the night busses. Golfito is an ex “United Fruit” headquarters for southern Costa Rica. Since the company moved to cheaper countries such as Ecuador, Golfito has turned to tourism (mainly local), and the Government has opened a duty free zone which is a magnet for people from the surrounding areas and boosts the town’s economy. For breakfast had two bananas and some muesli. Ready to enter the ferry to Puerto Jimenez (Port Jim for Gringos). Met two guys on the boat, one from Holland and second from oz (with a Polish grandfather). We all booked a trip across the local national park . It takes 48 hours and costs 60 US Dollars with no guide! Better be good ! Rice and chicken and some tequila. Ready for the trip at 5 am! I have done 1 km today (probably a daily record too!) Slept well in a very comfy double-decker coach. Got to David spot on for the sunrise. Fixed the tyre and after coffee and cake, left for the border. It took me just over 2 hours to travel the 55km. The border crossing was total madness. I met a couple of Germans from Stuttgart and had a bit of an experience exchange. The male was an ex Mercedes steering column engineer. Had to wait 1.20 min to get stamped out of Panama and an additional 20 minutes for the Costa Rican visa. Funny thing was that nobody was actually checking whether you had the visas or not. I could have just walked straight in! On the way to Golfito, I passed Nelly Ciudad (a bit of a dive) and ended up clocking 129km in the day (my record to date). I found a cheap hotel and after a relaxing strole along the sea fronted boulevard I fell asleep in my basic room in a nice wooden hotel. At 4 o`clock in the morning I woke up in the biggest bus station I have ever seen. Took a shower at the bus driver’s depot (very nice and clean). And left for the city. 2 km down the road a taxi driver started shouting at me. Finally, I realised that I had left my money belt and passport in the shower room. Luckily nothing missing, I left the attendant a thank you tip and started the day again (there are good people out there!!!). Panama city was very pleasant with a wide green avenue at the sea front. Running and cycling tracks with the accompaniment of, seemingly, hundreds of sky scrapers. It has a very distinctive old town, somewhat similar to old havana on a very small scale. What a sunrise! Mr Balboa wasn’t wrong calling the sea The Pacific (from peace). It really is deadly calm, hardly any waves. You could almost say boring… Cycled past a humongous fish market – it was nice to see people using the local resources. Had breakfast on the French square (remaining from the time of their attempt to built the canal). Cycled out town to have a glimpse of the human masterpiece but in comparison with the extent of the European canal network, it is nowhere near as advanced. It is definitely big though and does take massive ships. The expensive viewing platform is too far away to see the details and there are a lot of police checking that you aren’t a terrorist. The canal is a mega money making exercise, and it has just got the green light to become even bigger. Thanks to the canal Panamanians are getting lots of support from the US Government. Decided to get back to town and check the museum of the Canal…. Unfortunately it was mainly in Spanish…. Met a German man there (first generation American). After leaving, got a puncture, and then another two (had not seen a piece of glass stuck in the tyre). Cycled out to the peninsula “causeway” of Amador. Very upmarket, hosting yachts from all over the globe. Stopped in the local café for an internet session and a chat with a yacht owner but he was partially deaf so no luck with communication here. On the way back I was stopped by the Police in the “Chorillo” area of town and have been taxi`d out. Apparently it is a no go zone for tourists and I have been very lucky! With three handcuffed young gents sitting with me in the back of the police truck we made it to the old town and off I went in search of next transport back to David. I am very glad that I managed to visit Panama city. It’s a rich and vibrant town with lots of potential left in it. Another puncture on the way to the bus station!?. Had to walk (too dark to change the inner tube). 10 mins later I had joined the queue. Got the bus leaving at midnight. Full American-Panamian breakfast followed with bucket of sweat heading up in to the range of mountains crossing towards the Pacific side and the city of “David”. Saw a real snake crossing the road (small and pretty but no idea of its type). Half way up the climb at 650 meters high I had to capitulate and took the bus just to avoid the pouring rain and tiredness (possibly body needs a bit more gentle riding after my illness). I was dropped about 10 km before David city so cycled in and discovered nothing special. David is a connecting hub for local cities and sites. A busy town with very little to offer except shops bursting with goods from the US and cold beer. I chose the latter then decided to go on overnight trip to Panama City by bus. I just could not miss the opportunity of seeing the Canal, being so close. I tried to find a place to take a shower before jump on the coach but no joy. Baby wipes have to do the trick until the morning … Packed at 8 am, breakfast and ready to dive at 9. Last pleasure dive (free in the package). New location “coral garden” , went down to 18 meters , max for an open water diving allowance. Beautiful, lost for words… A bit sad but got some organic chocolate (trying to sweeten up the moment) and jumped on the boat to the main land . Cycled in terrible heat and killing humidity until arrival in Miramar. Got a ginger cake and a Palmier (no beer in town) and took some pics. Quick wander and just as I wanted to cycle off some American guy asked me what I was doing there. Half an hour later I was invited to his house to stay over-night and we discussed the problems of this planet. I was introduced to random locals popping in to charge their mobile phones (not everyone in the village has got electricity) . Richard, that’s his name, is some kind of us government worker (close to retirement age) investing in local land. He told me that you can buy land on an idyllic island for as little as 5000 US per hectare, NOT BAD EH? I was introduced to a 1970 religious film (Ten Commandments?) , wile people where turning up and leaving getting fed and given some coca cola from generous Richy. He was highly educated individual with three degrees who had previously worked for Nato in the old days. His house was right on the beach but no luxuries. Passed the PADI exam and ready for the final dives. That meant that I would be able to restart my cycling soon. Or should I spend another day in paradise? Well that’s the beauty of not having strict plans or schedules. “mañana” is becoming my motto. Completed another two dives! I saw a snake (marine eel) with yellow with black spots. Did not think I would see under water snakes before I had seen land based ones. Lion fish (a predator in this area) , apparently kills almost everything and produced swelling in humans if touched. Lots of colourful under water species. I could write about them all day. I had a bit of an accidental celebration later due to meeting some friends and it was Australia Day. Any excuse is good in Bocas. One guy mentioned that every day is either somebody’s birthday or somebody is leaving, so it’s a never ending party . Duth-English Heinrich (a plasterer from Lake Constance, Germany), US Teresa, Cockney Tony (what a sarcastic person) and Australians Matt and “Casanova”. Not forgetting Rob from the diving school, a Canadian cool dude from a yacht with a diving future in front of him (he told me that diving oxygene is good for hangovers – hmmmmmmmmmmmm). Innocent evening in the bar of a boat called “Rip Tide” turned in messy stagger and a dive into bed.
Two times cheese sandwich and muesli for breakfast and ready to dive for nine a.m. After a bit of juggling around, the dive school sent me and Teresa (not my Teresa, but a lady who works for Microsoft from Seattle in America) Our, almost private, tutor was Jan. Scottish Jan was an amazing teacher and explained excellently everything that we needed to know. Then uut for the dives! The first diving spot was a area close to an old hospital and island where all the malaria infected people from banana plantations were sent (mostly to die, I believe. What a location to die though!) Under water was even better; all shapes and colours of fish. Just like watching a diving film on the tv but for real. You can touch some things, and they react in funky ways. We found the biggest crabs and lobsters that I had ever seen under rocks. The second dive was in between two islands. Popped off the boat backwards. It wasn’t easy the first time, but the second was cool. Fish in blue, black and white stripes or just very big heads. A maaaaassive flat fish colony: they are also individually huge! There were so many types of coral: red, green, white, blue; some with half a meter of raised up fingers. UNBIELIEVEBLE!!!!!!!! I never, ever thought that diving could be that interesting. It has to be on the list of 1000 things to do before you die. The world has just got bigger for me. Anyway off for a cold shower (you could not have a hot one here trust me!) and some scoff , followed by couple of beers . (I’m not allowed to abuse alcohol before diving – so two is the maximum). Need to reduce my residual hydrogen in my vanes, before tomorrow’s session. Back in to the classroom for the final stage where I would need to be able to calculate how long and how often I could go under water in one day: (not easy, a bit like mathematics) After lunch I was dismissed and called back for the following morning….. Went to a secluded beach (to the other end of the island on the bicycle of course), a gentle swim, relaxation lasted 40 minutes before I was on the move to the grotto. I went 20 meters into the cave and found some spider like creatures, so decided not to proceed. Met a local picking some leaves who told me that they were good for back pains and memory (I did not ask the name, so have no idea what it was). Back to a restaurant that was full of locals and ordered the fish soup…. WOW very impressed , what a selection of seafood in it and a perfect taste. I have ordered seconds! Oh crap, sorry 19.10 I have to rush to the bar as happy hour is on !!! Still not great but feeling better every day. For breakfast, a massive pot of strawberry yoghurt and musli, followed with coffee and internet. Hot and sticky. Humidity 83%!!!! Ufffff. Another cofee and off for another look at the island I have seen too many times now. I re-scheduled the Padi diving course for tomorrow. I met some of my colleagues from the course that I had started that had now ended. They all passed the exam and some had booked for more dives. That’s what I like to hear! Cycled to the next beach for dinner and a beer. Back in the hostel, the Aussis were gone and and I had an American and a Kiwi in the room for company. Its nice to have a rotation of nationalities to see their different habits, etc. Only one thing is sure - everyone in the hostel is a piss-head! No dividing barriers on culture here or the language. Surprised too see a lot of Argentineans on the move but this must be the thing to do after Che Guevara!? I am sitting on the balcony overlooking the street and its colourful houses and people passing. The bar downstairs is blowing quality vibes (even for my old age) . I can see why the expat community is growing so quickly. You can fall in love with Panama if you are not a very needy person (gadgets etc) or on the other hand your are ecologically orientated. The only question is “Can this government sustain the right balance between ecology and growing mass tourism and the developer’s destruction?” Panama’s definitely worth a visit ! And pretty PRONTO!! I was beginning to feel like a prisoner on Boca del Tores. I would have liked to start moving again to see new things, cover some more kilometres. At the moment I am on covering distance up and down the stairs to the loo! Started feeling a bit better around midday. No hesitation: I was straight on the bicycle for a trip to the butterfly farm. Tourist information, even though it’s in a beautiful building, does not serve its purpose. Asked around and someone sent me to a hotel and I did manage to get a leaflet. The farm looked like it was about 500m away on the same island so I have tried to ask everyone I met for directions – resulting in lots of confusing dead ends. I finally gave in and took a boat taxi! With only a 1min ride and 2 dollars later, I arrived in a posher part of the island where yachts moored up. Lots of wa-wa’s talking about shares and boat parts. I walked through a bit of swamp to find the butterfly farm. A nice local gentleman showed me the different stages of the butterfly’s life, from egg laying and caterpillars to their predators. We then proceeded to the “mesh” tent: The size of the circus tent where I have found butterfly overload. Great colours, different sizes. I even learned that they eat fermenting fruit (in this case bananas). I asked and finally found the way back to main part of the island: obviously it was possible via an air strip!!! (see photo) The butterfly man said just be careful and smiled. Evening meal was a local soup (everything in, with bones etc.), rice with beans and a salad in the busiest (with locals) restaurant. It seemed to help a bit. After getting back, I realised I had lost the memory card for the camera. Luckily I had 90% of my pictures already saved. A couple from Australia tried to drag me out for a few beers, but I was nowhere near ready for a session (not like me – must really be ill). A strange thing in Boca del Tores is that you can’t find bananas to buy – in a region of the country where plantations abundant. Apparently most of the production is for export!!! Had to stop my Padi course for a couple of days and decided to go to the doctor. The hospital was packed with people but foreigners get special treatment via emergency (no queue, and no payment). Was diagnosed with a parasite from the local water (I had not been drinking it but had had brushed my teeth with it) Apparently is totally unsafe do drink it here on the island. The rest of the Panama has safe water (typical). Got my medicine. Was told to start a liquid diet… kind of impossible, but decided that I needed to do my best to eat sensibly. The rest of the day night and following morning was a mixture of: sweating in bed, headache, visiting the loo, medicine, fever (not the Saturday night variety), visiting the loo again and again….. a NIGHTMARE!!! At some stage a Japanese girl bunked down in the room for the night – I don’t think it was a feverish hallucination. Woke up to fnd myself with flu like symptoms and diarrhoea. I also found a girl sleeping in the men’s dorm – bizarre. I left to check on the Padi diving course that Teresa has persuaded me I should do while there. They enrolled me in the spot and 5 minutes later I was in the classroom. I struggles to concentrate, but had finished the theory lesson and taken my first diving lesson. Unfortunately, I had to leave a bit early as I had developed the shivers. Deli belly did not help either! Tried the town again for a map of Panama. It seems such a thing does not exist. I ate some junk food and retired to bed early after taking some paracetamol. One of my room mates had similar symptoms. Hopefully, I would feel better the next day. 8 am start and by 8.30 I was covered in waterfalls of my own sweat. I was dripping over the bike. Very humid and hot with hardly any wind. I was begging for a bit of head on wind (not something any cyclist would want). After few nasty hills and gallons of sweat I reached the port town of Almirante. Nice port with old wooden houses on sticks scattered around the bay. Popped in to town and got “attacked” by some moron trying to cause trouble and probably wanting to sell me some bullshit. Got to the boat ticket window and the price quoted was 6 US Dollars for a 20 min boat crossing to Bocas del Toro. Gave the person $20, got $4 change. The clerk told me that I’d given him ten. Well after a few seconds of painful dialog , I took my bike for a spin to the police station to tell them the story. Even though I am known to be super stingy, it was not the money, but the principle . I think I have probably become a bit too English and hence complained. The police officers where probably on drugs going by their speed of reaction and lack of concern (and work). Not too worry, the ride was worth the higher price! The island is pretty, relaxed with lots of tourists. Very nice feeling. I tucked in to the last coconut that I had bought in Costa Rica and watched the locals. It was like what I imagine arriving in 18th century American town would have been like; looking for a better future in the prosperous little place by a ship. Offered some accommodation, rejected. Cycled around and decided to head around the island (still no map). Passed a couple of famous surfing beaches. Saw lots of tourists on bikes. After doing about 12 km on the Bokas I slotted back in town in to a beach bar with cold water and beer. Checked the Lonely Planet guide for accommodation and set off in search. Mondo Taitu, a cool hostel for surfing dudes. I think I am one of the older people staying here (hmmmmmmmmm) Getting old? Free wi-fi, along with the paid bar and bunk bed. Not great storage for bikes but there is a security guard all night. Off to see if I can find a map in a tourist resort…? Coconut on the beach for breakfast; a quick internet session and couple of attemprs to get find the guy from the bicycle shop, but no joy. After an hour cycling, I have arrived in Porto Vieho de Talamanca. Very vibrant full of expats (old hippies), with a distinctive smell of ganga in the air. Found a bike repair shop that managed to sort out my loose spoke - plus ckecked all the others. All in all – it was done in 15 minutes for two dollars (I think the guy really liked the idea of touring hence the price). Had a bit of a look around and have to say it was a better spot than Cahuita. Anyway didn’t hang around and went straight to a botanical garden run by family of ex-Americans with a laid back altitude. Really nice spot with an interesting program of local and imported plants. Red frogs and other species. The really nice touch was being able to sample locally produced fruit (totally unique) home made chocolate beans (beautiful taste). There was also a presentation of spices (cardamom, pepper and cinnamon) and rare palm trees rubber trees etc. Strongly recommended; especially in September (driest month of the year in this region). Hopped back on the bike and headed for Sixaola (the border town with Panama). Arrived there at about 4 so did not hesitate in heading for the border crossing as the frontier town didn’t have anything to offer. The Panama side was even worse: a typical town frontier in an undeveloped country. Begging kids and crooked officials where trying to send me on a pointless taxi ride selling me a rubbish story about the bridge crossing not being possible. Well got to the next town and found a grotty hotel for 18 dollars (not impressed). The people were very friendly and not much different to most of Costa Rica (as yet). It was also impossible to buy a map - tried everywhere. Contacted Teresa and asked her to download me the Lonely Planet guide so that I had some information on the country. Hangover. 10 km hike in blast of sunshine (almost forgot what is it like to be sunny) and steam evaporating from the wet soil of Cahuita National Park. At the entry, the lady told me that there iwere some river crossings . Fine with me but I had to put long trousers on and long sleeves to protect from mosquitoes and other surprises . My cycling shoes were also not a great choice for water crossing.. The river was nearly neck deep probably full of banana plantation pesticides and waste water from villages above (nice)! I had to carry all my clothes on my head with the front handlebar bag and the shoes on the top. The animals here are spectacular. It’s nearly like a zoo walk, but without cages and fences. Some locals have been fishing in the sea with no rods, just a string and some stone as a weight, rolled on to piece of wood. They looked very professional in there actions. The coral reef in this area is one of the two Costa Rican reefs and since 1991, after an earthquake, the ses bed and some land around here had raised a meter. Looks quirky with corals sticking above the sea level. Saw three types of monkeys (got attacked by the small ones while eating my coconut (which they nicked half of it – cheeky - they also tried to pull my trousers to give them more) . A local guide told me to not give them any food, so I had to explain that they had stolen it. The really big ones make funny noise, similar to the bears. Spotted a green iguana (the size of medium dog), but couldn’t take a picture due to the fact of being half-naked and the camera being packed away before one of the river crossings. No snakes or frogs but I was not very vigilant following my intoxication from last night. Got a bus back from the exit of the park with some German students learning Spanish in Costa Rica. Dortmund girls told me that the Spanish language spoken here is clearer then the one in Spain. Got back and tried to find a local botanical garden but it seemed to have disappeared. Not to worry, I could try to find another one tomorrow going south-east towards the border with Panama. Had a quick ride around the town, lovely dry and sunny with no weighty panniers, perfect! Met an Italian guy who lived in Denmark who had met his Czech wife in Guatemala. They had stayed just outside Cahuita for the last 20 years (they are thinking about going back to Europe). He told me that Italians where the first to make a strike in Costa Rica. Surprise, surprise he was a baker and pizza chef who did his round on a bicycle - I got some bread and mini pizza with peppers. Followed this with a dessert of crushed ice and milk powder and home-made fruit juice poured over finished with a layer of condensed milk. Really tasty, light and refreshing! Got back to the hotel for some time washing and doing some maintenance. The chain on the bike looked so bad, clogged up in black oil with debris and sand. I cleaned off most of it and spotted loose spoke in the rear wheel. The local repair shop was closed so I will try in the morning. Just had a thought that the Jamaican influence has brought better taste buds, culture and also an English language in to this part of the country. Flip side of the coin is abuse of drugs and social problems to go with it. The speedo (RS- Rubbish Sigma) showed a total of 1935 km plus whatever I was missing (around 70km ?) I woke up drastically needing the loo, but the levels of hygiene in this particular hotel were such that I decided that I could not use the loo or shower. The town was not exactly amazing but did have a place for massive cruise liners to arrive with a separate tourist zone (typical – just like Cuba). I spotted a sloth but local priest I chatted to told me that government has supplied it to keep tourists happy (mmm). After a short conversation about religion and I went to get my stuff out of the cockroach infested hotel. I cycled around the town in the rain had a quick meal in a local soda (rice and beans, Jamaican jerk chicken and plantain stuffed with cheese - not that special but best so far in CR.) I followed it with a beer in the local dodgy bar and started the cycling along a nice road with not much traffic. Stopped to get a coconut drink and some coconuts from the local farmer. What a pleasant experience! He showed me the tricks of the trade with absolutely no lingua to communicate. Paid for one, left with three and one consumed on the spot. Lots of friendly drivers waved when passing. Some parts of the road were flooded road but nothing impassable. 48km achieved. Cahuita is a really nice, small, a litte touristy place, but not OTT (ed. over the top (for the Polish readers J). Just perfect, for a quick drink or few… More white faces than I had seen since I left the capital city. I ate my seafood packed lunch for dinner and before dark made sure I had researched the options of viewing the national park in the morning. I have spoke to a tour operator who also tried to sell me some drugs. He told me where to go and what to do… The hotel was lovely, a perfect distance from the noise of bars but not too far; 200m from the beach and spotlessly clean with great porch and hummock. I think this is one of those places where you could hang around for ages fully enjoying it. Unfortunately, I broke the fan in my room (no protecting mesh wire suplied). Will deal with it tomorrow. I went off to town to rock`n roll some plantanitos gaitan with beer. It is actually not raining!!! Could not believe it , so I used it aas an excuse to celebrate. Stewart needs to go to Parismina Boat fishing in a deep sea. Apparently it is a perfect spot for it! (when is not raining or in flood!) 5.40 in the morning with wet legs up to my knees and bike panniers dipping into the water I was told by a local guy that there will be no boat. I didn`t like what I’d heard but what could I do. 40 minutes with my feet in flood water and there is no boat! Bear in mind that the boat stop is under water, in fact there was very little there that was not under water. The rain was becoming a sort of Chinese torture for me. I’d had enough of being wet, damp, and drying my clothes on the fans in hostel rooms. After three hours hanging around the port waiting for a lift, the same guy as in the morning told me about his cunning plan to beat the flood. Finally we set for a rollercoaster boat ride into the madness of fast rivers and flood plains to finally join a 4x4 taxi that was driven on what was left of the road (still underwater) to safety. The evacuation was worth every penny, but it wasn`t a Disneyworld ride: we bordered on capsizing at every corner, we were instructed to sit and hold the boat firmly. No live jackets of course! Back to the town Siquiress and more time in the internet café. I took the computer apart but the keyboard was still dead - only 10 buttons are now actually working. The rain did not even slow down. Having already seen the town, I decided to leave town and head for a new adventure. I was on the way out when I spotted a person carrying a computer (I hoped he was service guy). I stopped and asked if he knew what my keyboard problem could be. He checked everything for me including system restore and connecting his own keyboard via the USB port. He told me it was probable a loose cable and recommended that I should buy a rubber keyboard (as my Spanish is rather non existent, he had translated everything, using Google, into Polish in his garden hardware store. What a guy! 13 dollars later I was on my way in to Puerto Limon with a new, light and working USB (Spanish) keyboard. Still no joy with the rain, 60 km to go and 14.30 on the clock, 3.5 h of daylight left. The rain did not stop pouring and I got to the stage when didn’t really care whether I had my raincoat on or off! Two really near misses with American lorries ……. Decision time, no more riding next to lorries. I decided to stop and get off the tarmac when I could see a lorry approaching in my mirrors. Time consuming but I prefer to be safe rather than sorry. A few km`s later there was massive traffic jam and I cruised passed all the lorries that had tried to shunt me from the road. One of the trucks had collided with a money transfer van. 1980’s American film? I was not too sure what was happening, lots of police and ambulances; it could have been a robbery. I wasn’t able to take pictures. The bonus was that the accident/robbery had given me the opportunity to cycle on an empty road. I did it! In arrive in a dramatic downpour in Banana Republic town, where bananas are loaded on ships and send to us in the west. No tourists - mainly bananas. Christopher Columbus arrived here in 1502, but from then until about 1800 the port was used as a pirate hide-out thanks to the deep water harbour. The government is trying to boost the region with extra investments. The streets were tired and with lots of high visibility alarms, cameras, wire gates and sharp objects: it reminded me of Liverpool. I checked into the 3rd hotel on my list. The previous ones did not like my bicycle…… It was a lovely colonial building with a tired feel to it. Not the best but it would do: to be honest I do not even care that night. I just wanted a bed. p.s. The rubber keyboard is very difficult to use, and re-typing does my head in. But it works. I was woken by the rain and got ready to explore new places. Did a quick wander around - a bit too quiet. Got stuck in a downpour couple of times. I spotted first signs of the fauna and flora that the area is famous for. Iguana in the wild lots of birds and a few butterflies. The highlight of the day was the previously arranged help with organising some extra educational activities with local kids. I got to the activity house and received lots of info about Parismina and the way things are. The activities were dependent on the weather and, with constant rain, drawing inside and creating a stick on game with plastic bottles was chosen. The buildings (of poor construction) are sponsored by an electricity company as a pay-off for being permitted to create water dams in various parts of the country . Not exactly an eco thing to do, but according to the American older lady, when she arrived in this village 30 years ago there was no water or electricity!!! She was part of Peace Corps project at the time. She has lived there ever since helping locals being a doctor, vet, teacher and social worker – an absolute star. Over the last few years she also run the parisminaturtle.com sanctuary which looks after the process of managing the incubation and hatching of young turtles. She runs volunteers projects too. Never the less, I hope my small input helped a little. The village of 450 has a lot of problems: drugs, female abuse etc. Apparently, theft is prevalent and females don’t really walk after dark hmmmmmmmmmm The American lady did manage to organise two police officers to patrol the village. The local hero lady’s son made the most amazing star fruit drink. Nothing like the stuff we get in Europe (even in top restaurants) They do change every two weeks. Anyway got a bit more walking in the late afternoon, tried the bar but there was nothing happening there so I have retired to my beer and new pork crisps with tomato salad followed by a Cuban cigar (which I needed to use in a good manor and it was a perfect evening for it sitting in the porch of the hotel) Yes I know sounds gross (except the cigar) but I had tried to go to a recommended local restaurant. The flooding water had unfortunately created a river between different parts of the village and some places already had water all over their gardens and in their houses. The restaurant was not accessible. The water, according to my North American friends, was safe to drink (hard to believe) – luckily, I am still OK. I decided that I needed to get my wheels rolling again. The landlady told me that the ferry comes twice a day 5.30am and 1.30pm to connect with the bus. Being me, I obviously chose the earlier one. Started out with an internet café and a quick trip to the bank. The Sigma speedo decided to start working again after drying out all day. I changed my direction for today’s destination. Mixed salad for brunch and a coffee, then of I went into the flooding rain with occasional spells of sauna like heat. Cycled passed two of the biggest banana producers in this country (Chiquita and Del Monte) and had a chance for a chat and quick look how the packing process worked before the bananas go on the ship to Europe and North America. Later on I acquired a friend who turned to be a bit of a con, as some local guy on the bicycle chased him off and told me to be careful. Had a small break in a bar in the middle of nowhere for a couple of beers and a local “Mondongo” which is basically tripe with crispy tortilla. Well over 30 km of bumpy muddy track until I arrived in the small village of Cano Blanco. Just seconds after I`ve worked out from an English speaking café owner, the local boat bus had arrived and I had to board for Parismina. The boat driver charged me two thousand local (around 4 US Dollars) and of we went on a speed boat roller coaster around chunks of big trees floating towards the sea. 3km backwater ride was full of birds that I could recognize only a few of. I wouldn’t have minded making this trip a little bit slower! Arrived at my destination under an hour before un set, so had to be quick. I asked the locals for directions to one recommended hostel and ended up in a kind of dead-end beach house. The girl opening the door turned out to be a volunteer from Canada who spoke fluent English and Spanish and helped me out to find accommodation. I was introduced to a local American women who runs the turtle protection centre, but being out of season I got my self a ticket to help cleaning the beach with local youth the following afternoon. The town has no roads or traffic of any kind, there is one car there and two quad bikes according to my American/Canadian informers. The town itself seems to be a little seedy but I had only seen it in the dark with lots of young lads hanging around pointlessly. Needless to say the beach stretches for miles slightly divided from town with palm trees and there are some backwaters and wildlife to discover too. Drank my coconut milk, got some sweet bread rolls and tomatoes in the local, poorly stocked shop. Gave up on a karaoke bar 300m from my hotel and decided to watch a film. The room was absolutely massive, probably the size of the flat in Sadyba <approx 60 meters> with two doubles and one single bed, plus a bathroom, all for ten dollars per night. Not too bad with a 30 second walk to the beach. It was twenty past ten when the rain started to poor down over the tin roof cover making a mega racket. I hoped I would be able to sleep through it! I noticed that my Sigma speedo meter was not working, so I tried several bike shops and watch fixing places with no result. Had a quick wander to the local market where I have tried something sounding like Yava with the usual extras (rice and beans ) and chilli pickles. It was recommended by a local guy sitting next to me. First thing in Costa Rica that has not busted the budget! 700 local with giant coffee (1.5 euro). Needed something more substantial after climbing “Everest “ the day before. I had only 47kms to accomplish today, so I was taking it easy. The spider sanctuary turned out to be for large groups only (or sod off you poor looking cyclist I cant be bothered with just one person) so I carried on. The crossing over the ridge was more difficult than La Farola (pass to Baracoa) in Cuba. Not an easy place to cycle this Costa Rica. Mountains and rain its not my favourite but it’s amazingly beautiful. Last 5 km was a deadly downhill in wet conditions (close to sauna temperature) following beautiful humongous American truck with horrible engine noise. Got a bit of turbulence breaking close to town again but managed to improvise ABS system on the rear wheel and it did actually work. Siquirres is a funny little town with ta rain station (out of order due to an earthquake), a big football pitch and a church in the middle of it all (the town, not the football pitch! Ed.) There were a few old colonial buildings and lots of friendly locals. The rain was pouring crazy every so often and there was a really heavy close feeling (Sauna-like). The history of this place was interesting - until 1949 the black part of the population were not allowed past this town to the west or north so even the train drivers had to be swapped for Spaniards. The revolution changed it all but the majority off the blacks remained in this part of the country, hence more problems due to higher poverty levels and Jamaican, African, Chinese and Italian work force when the Costa Rican railways where built . Found one of not many hotels in town (scabby) for 10 us dollars hmmmmmmm Better safe then sorry. Far too wet to even think about using the useless children’s garden tent. I had been warned already to really be careful in Puerto Limon (my next stop), by a random person in town, so I am considering a detour to the little place called Parismina (…) Well, just came back from an unsuccessful trip around the town in search for wi-fi. The town is completely flooded with water and it does not want to stop raining. In Europe this flooding would be considered as a national disaster, but here everything seems to be as normal and they have great tips how to avoid getting drenched or quickly drying your umbrellas. Taxis are busy too. They usually have a depot full of them in every town. The depot here is empty. Got up in to the sound of rain and had to pack everything in drizzle. Cycled remaining 11 km to the summit which took me another 2.5 hours in extremely unpleasant conditions. Wandered around the crater which was a bit disappointing due to the cloudy conditions. On a good day they you can see Pacific and Caribbean Sea at the same time. Well such is life! After a nice coffee and cake, the cycle down took me only 40mins after which I started av new route towards Turrialba. Half way through a high level of exhaustion I crashed!. In horrible rainy conditions my back tyre had blocked and skidded sideways. The next think I knew, I had panniers all over the road and painful elbow. Luckily nothing serious but a good lesson for riding in the rain (the helmet had been useful too). Turrialba was an absolutely splendid little town, compatible in feeling with Newbury. Got a hotel and did my washing. Put up my tent to dry in the room too and after sorting out my wounds, I left for wander around. The square in the centre of town reminded me of the one in Manzanillo (Cuba) . I had a some veggies, rice, some biscuits and couple of beers which send me straight to bed :-) Got myself ready for 10 am and cycled semi difficult 20 km to Cartago. While cycling uphill one of my SPD cleats would not clip out so I have landed on my side tumbling in the grass down hill. Lucky to find some grass here J Stopped for a biscuit and had a chat with a few random strangers. The town was not very special except the Basilica which had been rebuilt to its former glory. Earthquakes in 1841, 1910 and the latest in 1920 had destroyed the city, devastating its former glory as a capital city. Nether-the-less the views surrounding the city are spectacular. I have decided to have look at the highest active volcano (Irazu 3432m) in Costa Rica. From midday until 18:00, I accomplished only 20 km of constant uphill agony. I met a poor local cyclist who had a puncture but did not want to fix it. His wife was on the way to pick him up. Well the height was around 2700 with strong winds and the bloke did not look too happy so I gave him my recently appropriated fleece blancket. (Thank You - Taca Airlines) Lucky to find kind a farmer who let me stay in his front garden at 2800m height above sea level. Picturesque views out of the tent did not compensate for the feeling of cold. I slept in everything that I had in my packs like a baby. I could just have disappeared to bed, considering tiredness from the night on the laptop, the night before Teresa’s departure to the UK. I did not really know what to do, and where to cycle. I went for a walk around, I bought a reasonable map, a shiny new helmet and also visited The National Museum (well worth it). I also tried to pop in to the zoo (to get an idea of which animals that I might see on my travels) but got there a little bit too late to enter. Back in the hostel, I met a couple of guys from UK (Northern Irish and Newcastle – both of whom were working in London). Also met a mad (elderly) woman from Poole and her internet met friend (bit of a posh one) . They were travelling around the world! Got myself a beer and received beer and a life story. The barman was a young guy from France (Lyon) who was learning Spanish for half a year while earning some a bit of cash. A sleepless night sitting in a posh American style 24 h restaurant paid off . Teresa got her flight back. In the meantime a few of the waiters were friendly to the point of offering help in any possible way with our bikes/tour. After cycling around for a while, researching new areas, we decided to use the help offered by Gustavo to store Teresa’s bicycle during her month in the UK. We were directed to his apartment in the nearby town (Alajuela) . The area was very pleasant with nice squares and an airy feel to it. En route to the airport we popped in for a beer in a small, local busy tavern. Imperial Beer seems to be much better then anything in Cuba. I also got us lost on the way to the terminal trying to find a shortcut :-) After a kiss good bye I started cycling from the airport in to San Jose. Somebody said that it was only 16 km. Well, it took me a good four hours to get to my hostel, mostly in the dark and constantly up and down in heavy traffic. My dorm turned out to be a large private room (for 10 people) - nice one. The hostel was lovely, cosy and with a swimming pool and lots of space. Great for a capital city hostel. High speed wi-fi availability (luxury after Cuba) |
Teresa and TadekInexperienced cycle tourists of Cuba, Costa Rica, Panama, Nicaragua, Thailand, Laos & Cambodia Categories
|